Corazón feliz: Cancún

Mexico is a land of vast deserts, dense jungles, pristine beaches, and rich history.  Bordered by the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea on the other, Mexico spans over 760,000 square miles of land in the southern portion of North America.

Cancún is situated in the southeastern tip of Mexico.  About 90 miles from the westernmost point of Cuba, Cancún marks the transitional location between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean.  The famed beaches of Cancún display the western Caribbean Ocean in all of its divine, blue beauty.

In keeping with the tradition of Cancún being regarded as the classic college student spring break destination, my friend from high school and I reunited for a spring break below the border.

The flight to Cancún from LAX took about four hours.

 I am always a fan of a window seat whenever one is available.  I have not flown very much in my life, so the excitement of being thousands of feet above land in a metal aircraft still tickles me to my core.

The lighting from the sunset cast a beautiful, warm glow over the Mexican Desert.


The view of Cancún from the air during our nighttime arrival.

The next morning, we awakened in our hotel room to this gorgeous view.  A sliver of ocean reflects the sun's early rays way out in the distance.

 The breakfast buffet at our hotel cost 110 pesos, or about $5 USD per person.  My friend and I both maintain that this was the best (and cheapest) hotel breakfast that we have ever had.



Poolside breakfast of scrambled eggs with nopales (cactus), chilaquiles, mixed vegetables, fruit, salad bar, juice and coffee.

Pesos, the currency of Mexico.  The current exchange rate is about 19 pesos to 1 US dollar.  The 1,290 pesos in my hand is thus worth about $65 USD.

We spent our day exploring the markets of downtown Cancún.

We first visited Mercado 28, where we purchased some woven bracelets and coconut incense.  This market was noticeably geared toward tourists, which we had been told to expect.  We made our way to Mercado 23, a proclaimed "genuine" Mercado frequented by locals.  The above photo shows a typical view of a row of shops in Mercado 23.

We loved Mercado 23.  The wide variety of artisanal goods and delicious foods was a perfect introduction to the culture of Cancún.

Our delicious lunch of tacos de camarones (shrimp tacos), ricotta quesadilla, and nopales empanadas.

We visited a shop that contained a multitude of spiritual and religious objects spanning many different belief systems and traditions.  I was fascinated to find Buddha figures among the candles, skeletons, and wooden carvings of skulls.  I asked the shop owner whether Buddhism was practiced in the area and she said that it was not, but that they had the figures to represent other cultures that visit the region.

 Potions unknown to me, with skull charms attached.  I was told that each color represents a different concept and that the purpose of many of the skull/skeleton-related objects is for protection.  Red signifies love, gold signifies wealth and prosperity, green signifies justice and unity, yellow signifies health, blue signifies education, and black signifies dark magic or negative energy.

A wall of colored candles, with photos and icons hung in front.

A beautiful mural next to a neighboring outdoor shop.  The caption reads, "Soy aquel que cada mañana espera sentir tu esencia": "I am the one who every morning hopes to feel your essence."

My purchases from the markets, featuring magnets for my mother, bracelets for my apartmentmates, a Loteria-themed shopping bag, a glorious ceramic sun, and two items from the aforementioned shop with the religious objects: a small red, green, yellow, and black dreamcatcher, and an even smaller figurine of Santa Muerte, the female deity of death, in a red robe, for protection in the realm of love.

 Enjoying an afternoon drink back in the hotel.

After a bit of unwinding, we decided to make our way to the beach for a sunset dip in the Caribbean.

A short bus ride later, Playa Langosta, literally "Lobster Beach," greeted us with a stunning sky in hues of pink, yellow, and blue. 

Although the sun had set, the air temperature stayed in the mid- to high-seventies (Fahrenheit), and the water was only a few degrees cooler.  We were comfortable and warm in the balmy, humid air.

Thrilled to be in a new sea.

 

We stayed in the water for about half an hour.  As far out as the buoys reached, the depth of the water stayed about the same, so we could float on our backs while effortlessly anchoring ourselves with our hands or feet in the sand just below.

There was hardly anyone around, so we were able to enjoy this new place, this new body of temperate, clear blue water, on our own.

Remnants of the daylight still colored the sky long after the sun had gone.

We spent hours talking under a palapa, or a open-sided structure with a roof made of dried palm leaves.  Here is a view of a far-off "pirate ship" putting on a show for viewers on the boat.

We left Playa Langosta to get dinner by our hotel.  We passed this iconic Cancún sign on our way out.

Italian dinner of seafood risotto and smoked salmon pizza, accompanied by a mojito and a piña colada.

 A panorama of the view from our hotel room early the next morning.

I find it forever confusing when the sun rises over the ocean - a classic West Coast perspective flipped on its head.

On our second full day in Cancún, we treated ourselves to a tour of Río Secreto, an underground river in an incredible cave system about an hour south of our home base.

We entered the jungle by Playa del Carmen, ready for the stalactite and stalagmite paradise that awaited us.

Río Secreto was discovered in 2005 by a local Mayan farmer.  This farmer has allowed 10% of this magnificent place to be available for visitors to explore on guided tours, in order to fund the preservation of the other 90% of the cave system.  

On tours in the cave, individuals leave their phones, clothes, and belongings behind, with only a head lamp, a helmet, a swimsuit, water shoes and a life vest on their person.  For this reason, I did not take any photos in the cave.  Below are some shots taken from the official website, to give you a peak into the tremendous beauty that we witnessed on our magical tour of Río Secreto.

Stalactites, stalagmites, and columns of the two mineral formations fill the cave, creating stunning reflections on the clear, turquoise water.

Portions of the tour occur on dry land within the cave, but the majority of the time is spent floating in the crystal-filled fresh water of this subterranean river.

Being in this secret underground utopia was a wonderful perspective check.  Turning out our headlamps for a minute, simply listening to the dripping of the water and the silence so loud that it rings in your ears, and seeing pitch blackness with eyes open or closed; there is something so humbling about realizing the transient nature of our sensory experiences.

The lighting in the cave can change so much about how the formations appear.  The natural state - the absence of all sunlight - left the cave system in complete darkness for millions of years.  Organisms living in the cave today include bats, small catfish, and translucent fish that evolved within the cave.

Happy cave river explorers after emerging from the secret Río into the jungle, still donning our stylish water shoes.

Our tour guide, Ricardo, is at least the most handsome man in all of Latin America.  (Disclaimer: he is even more handsome in person.  And his eyes are as clear and aquamarine as the breathtaking river which he led us through.)

Upon returning to the hotel, we spent the afternoon by another pure, blue body of water.  The pool was a perfect place to catch the sun's final rays of the day.

Dinner was sushi at a restaurant near our hotel.  Although I was unsure at first about how a sushi experience would be in Mexico, this dinner was absolutely fantastic.  Que delicioso!

The next morning, we again began our day with the buffet breakfast of the gods.  This meal featured fresh papaya, fried plantains, and the most delicious chilaquiles and eggs.  Con café negro y fuerte (with strong, black coffee), of course!

The sun peaked through the palm trees over the pool, welcoming us into our third day in the state of Quintana Roo.

A mouthwatering addition of pan dulce with nutella topped off the already phenomenal breakfast.

We excitedly headed to our destination of the day: the Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza!

Chichen Itza, built by the Maya in the 9th century CE, was one of the largest cities of the Mesoamerican world.  

El Castillo, "the castle," comprises the center of the archaeological site.

This imposing pyramid measures about 100 feet tall, equivalent to the height of a ten-story building. 

El Castillo is also known as the Temple of Kukulcan, honoring the namesake feathered serpent deity of the Yucatec Maya.

Templo de los Guerreros, Temple of the Warriors, to the east of El Castillo.

Depictions of Kukulcan slither down the sloping stairs of the stepped pyramid.

The plumed serpent deity, himself.

On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sun and shadows strike the pyramid such that it appears as though a serpent is slithering down the staircase.

A look at Chichen Itza from the southwest corner.

This pyramid has 91 steps up each side, leading to the temple at the top.  

The Hall of a Thousand Pillars is believed to have been a place of gathering, such as an indoor marketplace.

These stone columns once supported a roof, though now all that remains are the limestone ruins.

Thousands upon thousands of limestone blocks cut out of nearby quarries make up the impressive site of Chichén Itzá.

Carved into the bricks that make up this structure are depictions of the priestly class that once ruled the city.

Find the squirrel and iguana coexisting with the stone portrayals of a jaguar and eagle.

The Temple of Chacmool displays a sculpted chacmool figure at the top of the extant ruins.  Chacmool figures are thought to represent slain warriors holding offerings for the gods. 

Reliefs in this structure render symbols of Kukulcán and the Morning Star.

These walls of the Temple of the Large Tables, once atop the neighboring temple base but now on ground level after excavation, shows a procession of jaguars among spears and trees.

 Remnants of paint can still be seen on this portion of the wall, a reminder that these structures were once elaborately painted.  We can only imagine the colorful wonder that would have been present at the peak of this city, about twelve centuries ago.

The serpent friezes were placed on top of the jaguar procession as a final touch to the temple.

The artistry present in this entire site is as impressive up close as from afar.

Templo de las Grandes Mesas is formed from a four-tiered base that once had an additional building on top.

This structure shows the original structure underneath, in addition to the revamped structure overlaying the top of the older temple.

El Castillo from in front of the Temple of the Large Tables.

Platforma de Venus, or the Venus Platform, contains relief carvings of Quetzalcoatl-Kukulkán, a deity represented as the cross between a bird, a man, and a serpent.

This platform shows another example of a mix between older and newer stone structures.

Heads of Kukulkán protrude over the staircase at the top of the platform.

A closeup of the serpent bird god.

Carvings of jaguars counterbalance the depictions of Kukulkán.

Tzompantli, the Wall of Skulls, served a grim purpose as a base for the stakes on which heads of human sacrifices were impaled.

Reliefs of skulls reflect the use this structure fulfilled long ago.

When the 100 degree heat got to us, Janice, our two new friends and I went to the restaurant by the entrance of the site.  Some delicious food and cold drinks later, we were restored and ready again to experience the ruins.

While looking at some souvenir vendors, we spotted an iguana having an afternoon snack.

Hi, buddy!

Back to El Castillo, the king of the Chichén Itzá pyramids.

A group shot of Janice and I with our new friends from Ohio, Austin and Zach.  We are so happy we met this fantastic people, and that we got to experience the glory of Chichén Itzá together.

A view of the Temple of Chacmool and El Castillo in late afternoon light.

The Ball Courts of Chichén Itzá were used for ritual ball games common to most Mayan cities.

The ball game entailed hitting a hard rubber ball through the stone rings visible on the opposing walls, using only the hip, knee, or elbow.  If the ball touched the ground, the game was lost.  Carvings on the bases of these walls depict the loser of the game being decapitated as a ritual sacrifice.

An overexposed panorama of the ball court and nearby structures, including El Castillo.

The difference between how this site would have looked and been lived in a millennium ago versus the present day is fascinating to think about.

Looking up at the Kukulcán heads that watch from above.

The omnipresent deity pervades the archaeological site.

Templo de los Tigres, the Temple of the Jaguars, borders the ball court from the southeast.  

A steep staircase up the side of this structure leads to a lookout over the ancient playing field.

Serpent reliefs cover the columns to the side of the jaguar figure. 

A final shot from the beautiful, historical, rich archaeological site of Chichén Itzá.

The evening sky from the bus window on our three hour ride back to home base.

Cancún bound!

I did not see the sculpture when I took this photo in our moving bus; this photo was a product of fate.  Note the religious imagery of the cross to the left of the sculpted sun god.  (I joke, but the telephone pole does resemble a cross, no?)

A fire in the jungle created dark, smoky clouds over the sunset sky.

That night, we decided to experience the true "college spring break" Cancún.  We met up with some friends and had a fun night at a club by Zona Hotelera, the Hotel Zone.

Such a fun night, as is evidenced by the fun balloon hat I am wearing in this photo.

A sweetheart bought us roses!  Que lindo.

The most delicious breakfast after three hours of sleep to ease the blow of the night before.  Hashbrowns, melon, papaya, chilaquiles, scrambled eggs, juice, and coffee.

And a pan dulce with nutella to top the meal off.

We spent the day enjoying the divine teal water of the Caribbean at Playa Delfines. 

The palapas dot the beach, providing shade and a cool hideout from the extreme UV radiation omitted by the hot Cancún sun.

The variation in color of the sea reflects the clouds in the sky above.

Hot iguanas basking in the midday sunshine.

Soft sand leading to a stunningly pigmented ocean.

Kelp being tossed, deposited, and swept away by el mar.

The ocean was quite rough this day - in fact, the entire beach was red flagged, so swimmers could only go in up to their chest before the lifeguard would whistle them out.  The strength of the currents assured us that this rule was for the best.

The marvelous dichotomy of pale blue sky with light grey clouds and glistening aquamarine ocean with bright white foam.

The water, in the seventies (degrees Fahrenheit), was incredibly inviting on this upwards of eighty-degree day.

Ebbing...

...and flowing.

An unintentional heart made by my feet in the sand and the rushing water.

Romping through the stormy waters.

A beautiful day in a spectacular place.

The ocean was, and is, very much alive.

Across this sea lies Cuba.  Anyone game for a 90 mile swim?

This bird is as magnificent as its shadow below.

 A struggle-full selfie with our favorite Ohioan friends.

This sweet iguana simply loved the sand of Playa Delfines, or Dolphin Beach.  Dolphins dance on the mural in the background.

True bliss, aside from the massive sunburn forming on my face and body.

Drinking cold drinks delivered to us under our palapa.

Clouds loomed in the distance as we made our way out of Playa Delfines.

After a sushi lunch with our Chichén Itzá friends, Janice and I spent some time at the hotel enjoying the bar and poolside.  After the bar closed, two hotel employee bartenders showed us their favorite local spot at Parque las Palapas, a street market with delicious food.

A midnight snack of chile relleno con camarones, along with a crispy shrimp taco garnished with mayonnaise (in such cute designs).

Thank you both for showing us Pescadito, the Little Fish!  (Can you spy my sunburn?  Ouch!)

After the night market, we drove by the lagoon adjacent to the sea.  We got to go down by the water and see nighttime fishermen at work.

A corner of Cancún we cherished the chance to visit in our final hours.

Our final breakfast at the airport before our 7AM flight.  These chilaquiles were absolutely the best airport food I have ever encountered, and I would really like some more right now!

Our view flying out of Cancún.

Endless thanks to this incredibly beautiful, warm, and love-filled place.  We will absolutely be back.

The view of the green swirled ocean through the clouds from above brought me to tears.  Hasta luego, Cancún!

The view over part of the six hour flight back across Mexico to Los Angeles.

Welcome back to the United States!

Thank you, Cancún, for the best spring break I could have ever asked for.